Complex Relationship Between Hair, Identity and Mental Health: A conversation with Dr. Ebony Nicole.
In our exploration of the complex relationship between hair, identity, and mental health, we are thrilled to introduce Dr. Ebony Nicole —a seasoned hairstylist and skilled somatic mental health practitioner who brings a truly unique perspective to the conversation. With over 20 years of experience in hair care as a licensed cosmetologist and certified loctician specializing in the Locksmyths method, Ebony’s expertise goes far beyond the surface.
She bridges the gap between beauty and psychology with an impressive academic background, holding a Master’s degree in Mental Health Counseling with a specialization in Dance/Movement Therapy and currently pursuing a Ph.D. in Counseling Psychology, focusing her research on Race Identity and cultural competency. At her sanctuary, Locks of Nu Natural Hair Spa, she pioneers an embodied approach to natural hair health, a philosophy she is further exploring in her upcoming book, Kinks and Identity: The Psychology of African American Hair.
By leaning into her insights on the emotional and psychological impact of hair, particularly the lived experience of hair pain—we gain a powerful lens through which to understand the deeper issues of identity and wellness at play.
Can you open up a bit about your work and career? We’re big fans and we’d love for our community to learn more about your work.
"I'm a somatic mental health and wellness practitioner, Board Certified Dance/Movement Psychotherapist, Licensed Creative Arts Therapist, licensed cosmetologist, and entrepreneur. I can say that I have always been doing some kind of body-based healing for most of my life. I began dancing and performing at a young age. In 2003, I opened Locks of Nu Natural Hair Spa, and utilizing our mission of “Healing the Community Follicle by Follicle,” my primary focus was to create a therapeutic environment within the Black community. Locks of Nu Natural Hair Spa became my genesis for connecting artistic/cultural aesthetic expression, self-care, and psychology.
As a licensed cosmetologist and salon owner, I began to recognize a connection between hair, race, and cultural identity, although I could not name it as that at the time. I then decided to return to school and acquired my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and master’s degree in Clinical Mental Health Counseling with a specialization in Dance/Movement Therapy. I am currently earning my Doctorate in Counseling and Psychology: Transformative Leadership, Education, and Applied Research, where I am continuing my research and work rooted in cultural/race identity, trauma-informed healing care, centering Black Aesthetics of the African Diaspora through cultural movement narratives, non-verbal communication, and somatic-based healing practices. My current work as a somatic therapist and adjunct professor is an extension of my work as an entrepreneur.
As an entrepreneur, I have been a part of various collectives, such as my dance collective, Afro Mosaic Soul Dance Collective, and my research collective, Diversity in Motion Research Collective. I am most proud and excited about these collective spaces because I believe change takes collective action. Most recently, my husband and I started a retreat space. The retreat space feels like an integration and culmination of my life’s work as it answers that cliché question, “what would you do if you did not have to work?”. While we certainly are not at a place where we no longer have to work, having a space for the community to come, relax, dance, be in nature and just be has been one of my proudest achievements.
There were many challenges over the years, but I have learned that while it helps to have a plan, some things do and will emerge from the experience itself. My first business, Locks of Nu Natural Hair Spa, turns 20 next summer. I always envisioned a kind of salon cooperative, and during the COVID pandemic, I decided to make that a reality. I have spent the last year transitioning Locks of Nu into a fully collective space between my core stylists/team. In addition, we have begun an apprenticeship incubator program where young stylists can develop their skills in a safe environment that is not only about being a great stylist but also taking care of the hearts and minds of the humans that enter our space. I do this with the hope that what I learned over the years and the knowledge can be passed on to the next generation"
Let’s talk about principles and values – what matters to you most?
"Integrity is a fundamental principle. For me, it goes beyond simply being honest. Integrity as a quality allows me to speak my authentic truth unapologetically. If I know that I am acting with integrity and in alignment with my authentic truth, then hopefully, that carries over into my actions, relationships, and experiences with others"
You’ve mentioned that your work behind the chair as a natural hairstylist inspired your transition into mental health. Can you share the pivotal moments or observations in your salon that led you to take this path?
"I started out doing hair when I was in my early teens and eventually I began working as a head stylist at lots of South African lockers about 2000-2001 under the tutelage of Ona Maat and about 2003, I opened lots of new natural hair spas and from 2003 until 2010
being behind the chair I noticed that there were connections between natural hair and black identity and I didn't necessarily have the words to explain what those connections were at the time, but in 2010 I decided to go back to school and get my undergraduate degree in psychology that led me to getting my masters degree in clinical mental health counseling specializing in movement dance and weight therapy. And then currently, I am doing my PHD in counseling of Psychology"
What solutions or practices do you recommend for individuals and communities to begin healing from hair-related trauma?
"The shift starts at home by reclaiming your time. To address hair trauma, you must schedule intentional hair care into your routine. Acknowledge that natural hair requires patience—especially during the detangling process—and give yourself permission to move slowly. By changing how we treat our hair individually, we begin to challenge the systemic pressures of the 'quick fix.'"
What is somatic health, and what does a somatic mental health and wellness practitioner do?
"As a Somatic Mental Health and Wellness Practitioner, I bridge the gap between traditional "talk therapy" and the physical self. My background as a dancer since age six taught me early on that movement possesses an innate power to heal and de-stress. In my practice, I don't just focus on the mind; I use the body’s wisdom to navigate psychological challenges.
It is important to note the distinction between different levels of somatic work:
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Somatic Psychotherapy: This requires advanced, specialized clinical training (such as a Master’s or PhD level) to use the body as a diagnostic and therapeutic tool for mental health disorders.
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Somatic Wellness: This is a community-based approach. You don't necessarily need a doctorate to practice somatic wellness, and I often help people figure out how to integrate these body-based grounding techniques into their daily lives and communities.
Essentially, while the word "somatic" is used by many practitioners today, the difference lies in the depth of clinical application versus general wellness and community support"
When I look at the youth nowadays, I feel like there is a lot of weaves and wigs that they wear, could you kindly explain why is that?
"When we observe the younger generation's preference for wigs and weaves over their natural hair, we’re seeing the result of a long-standing standard where 'beauty' meant anything but natural. Even as we share information about the health benefits of natural hair, the habit of covering up remains. We may be in a transitional era—a middle ground where we are rediscovering the pathway back to ourselves. By opening an intergenerational dialogue, we can ask the youth if their choices come from a place of true empowerment or if they are simply following a 'standard' that has made natural hair feel like an outlier"
To wrap up our discussion, what is the ultimate message of hope you want readers to carry with them from your work and our conversation today?
"What resonates most for me is the power of choice. For too long, our stories have been overshadowed by external narratives and deep-seated trauma. We have finally reached a turning point where we truly have options.
The ultimate takeaway is the freedom to choose. Whether that means attuning to your own inner needs or connecting with the needs of your community. Reclaiming our power is the key to re-patterning our lives and finally moving beyond a state of survival into one of genuine healing"
This interview is part of my documentary BAD Hair Uprooted, the Untold History of Black Follicles. To support the documentary download the book.
